Close-up of white cotton bolls growing in a field in warm golden sunlight.

A shopper’s guide to sustainable fabrics: what clothing labels really mean

Finding clothes in your colour palette is only part of choosing something you’ll enjoy wearing. Fabric matters too: how it feels, how you care for it and how it was produced.

Our fabric filters help you narrow your search on Shop My Palette, whether you prefer pure cotton, merino knitwear, linen blends, or clothes containing recycled fibres. Product-page fabric tags provide more detail; check the retailer’s composition percentages for the full picture, including linings.

Here’s how to make sense of some of the names you’ll encounter.

Cotton: is it worth choosing organic?

Cotton is a natural plant fibre, popular for its breathability and comfort. Conventional cotton farming can involve substantial irrigation, synthetic fertilisers and pesticides, although the impact varies considerably between farms.

Organic cotton is grown under standards that prohibit synthetic fertilisers and hazardous synthetic pesticides, alongside requirements for soil management. Many people choose to pay more for organic cotton because this supports these farming practices and can reduce associated pollution and exposure to hazardous agricultural chemicals.

Organic doesn’t automatically mean softer, longer-lasting or better for your skin. Fibre quality, weaving, dyes and finishing all matter. Nor does every organic cotton garment use less water than every conventional one: location and irrigation make a difference. Textile Exchange’s cotton research highlights how much depends on the whole farming system.

What do cotton labels mean?

Label What it tells you
GOTS Covers certified organic fibres and environmental and social requirements during textile processing. The ‘organic’ label requires at least 95% certified organic fibres; ‘made with organic’ requires at least 70%.
OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 The textile has been tested for harmful substances against the standard’s limits. It can apply to conventional cotton or synthetic fabrics; it does not mean organic.
BCI / Better Cotton

A programme that helps farmers improve how they grow cotton. It does not mean the cotton is organic. Some labels show that the brand supports the programme; only ‘Physical BCI Cotton’ confirms that the cotton in the garment comes from participating farms.

Materra A company working with farmers on traceable regenerative cotton, with programmes aimed at improving soil, biodiversity and livelihoods. The name is not interchangeable with organic certification.

Sources: GOTS, OEKO-TEX, BCI sourcing and Materra.

Click here to shop 100% cotton items →

Poplin, percale, denim and velvet: fabrics, not fibres

These names describe how a fabric is constructed, so you still need to check what it contains.

  • Poplin is a closely woven fabric with a smooth surface and fine crosswise ribs, often used for cotton shirts and dresses.
  • Percale is a plain-weave fabric associated with crisp, cool-feeling bedding, commonly made from cotton.
  • Denim is a twill fabric, usually predominantly cotton. Stretch denim contains an elastic fibre such as elastane; some jeans also contain polyester or lyocell.
  • Chambray is a plain-weave fabric, usually made with coloured threads in one direction and white threads in the other. It often resembles denim but is typically lighter, making it popular for shirts and summer dresses. It can be made from cotton, lyocell or blends.
  • Velvet has a dense, cut pile that gives it its plush surface. It can be made from cotton, viscose, silk, polyester, or blends. Cotton velvet and polyester velvet can therefore look similar while feeling quite different.
  • Model wears a cream organic cotton button-down top.

An organic cotton top from Baukjen, shown in cream. Baukjen’s fabric guide explains its cotton jerseys and the other materials used across its collections.

Linen: a useful option for warmer weather

Linen comes from the flax plant. It is strong and absorbent, and often used in airy shirts, trousers and dresses. It also creases readily, so choose it if you like that relaxed finish. A linen blend may feel softer or crease less, depending on what it contains.

Flax can be grown with relatively modest inputs, but linen’s impact still depends on farming and processing. ‘Natural’ and ‘linen’ alone cannot tell you how a particular garment was made.

Model wears an orange linen-blend trouser and top outfit.

A vibrant orange linen-blend outfit from Nobody’s Child. Explore the brand’s materials guide to learn more about its fabric choices.

Click here to shop linen and linen-blend items →

Viscose, modal and TENCEL: are they natural?

Viscose begins with plant cellulose, usually from wood, which is dissolved and re-formed into fibres. It belongs to the man-made cellulosic family: often called semi-synthetic, rather than a natural fibre like cotton or linen. Rayon is a broader name you may see used for these fibres, particularly viscose.

Viscose is often soft, absorbent and fluid, making it useful for dresses and blouses. Its environmental impact depends on where the cellulose comes from and how the factory manages chemicals, emissions and wastewater. A plant origin alone does not make it sustainable.

What’s the difference between the main types?

Modal is a type of fibre related to viscose, often used for soft underwear and jersey clothing. It holds up better than ordinary viscose in the wash cycle, although you should still follow the care label. MicroModal uses finer modal fibres for an especially soft feel; the name does not indicate a separate sustainability certification.

Lyocell uses a different production process. Efficient recovery and reuse of the solvent can reduce manufacturing impacts, but for better sustainablility, the pulp must be responsibly sourced.

TENCEL™ is Lenzing’s brand for lyocell and modal fibres. It is not a cotton weave. Lenzing describes its TENCEL lyocell process as a closed loop that recovers and reuses the solvent. Read about TENCEL lyocell.

LENZING™ ECOVERO™ is branded viscose carrying the EU Ecolabel for the fibre. Livaeco™ by Birla Cellulose is another branded cellulosic range: look for the specific fibre and sourcing information rather than assuming every branded viscose has identical credentials. ECOVERO’s fibre information and Birla’s information explain their respective approaches.

Bamboo viscose is viscose made using bamboo as the cellulose source. It has still undergone chemical processing. Bamboo’s rapid growth does not establish that the finished fabric has a low impact, or retains the plant’s antibacterial properties. A lot depends on a manufacturer's processes. 

Model wears bamboo viscose yoga outfit in navy blue and cobalt.

BAM's collections feature colourful bamboo performance wear, perfect for yoga, pilates, running, gym, and more. Read why BAM chooses bamboo and how the brand explains its benefits.

Click here to shop viscose, modal, and lyocell items →

Wool, merino, alpaca and cashmere: warmth and softness

Animal fibres can offer warmth and absorb moisture vapour, helping with comfort. Their environmental costs include farming and land use; sheep also produce methane. Animal welfare and grazing management matter, so look for sourcing information and relevant standards, such as the Responsible Wool Standard or Responsible Alpaca Standard. Textile Exchange outlines wool’s benefits and challenges.

Fibre What to expect
Lambswool Wool from a sheep’s first shearing, often soft and springy. The breed and fibre fineness affect how it feels.
Merino Wool from Merino sheep. Fine grades are often comfortable next to the skin and work well in lighter knitwear.
Alpaca Often warm with a soft, silky feel and a less springy drape than sheep’s wool. Coarser fibres can still feel prickly.
Cashmere The fine undercoat of cashmere goats, valued for softness and warmth without much weight. Quality varies, and grazing impacts deserve attention.

There is no reliable softness ranking based on the name alone. Fibre diameter is particularly important, as Woolmark explains, alongside yarn, construction and finishing.

A well-made cashmere jumper in one of your best accent colours can be a lovely investment for your colour season wardrobe, provided you enjoy wearing it and are happy to care for it.

Model wears a cream and burgundy striped merino rollneck pullover.

Cream and burgundy merino knitwear from Aspiga. Read about the brand’s merino wool sourcing, its softness and how to care for it.

Click here to shop wool and wool blends →

Click here to shop merino and merino blends →

Click here to shop cashmere and cashmere blends →

Recycled fabrics: what improves, and what doesn’t?

Recycled cotton, wool and synthetics use existing material, reducing the need for some virgin resources. They can give manufacturing scraps or discarded products another use. Processing still has an impact, and the benefits depend on the material and recycling method.

Recycled polyester is commonly made from plastic bottles rather than old clothes. It reduces reliance on new fossil-based feedstock, but turning a bottle into clothing does not mean the garment will be recyclable afterwards. Textile Exchange’s materials reporting explains where recycled polyester comes from.

Recycled polyester still sheds plastic microfibres. You cannot assume it releases fewer than virgin polyester, and some studies have found more shedding from the recycled fabrics tested, due to type of yarn and fabric composition. The European Environment Agency’s evidence review discusses this distinction.

Our ‘contains recycled fibres’ filter identifies recycled content, rather than promising that the whole garment is recycled. Check the percentages with each retailer.

Model wears a brown quilted jacket made from recycled materials.

Finisterre uses recycled fabrics accross is collections. Explore the brand’s fabric guide, including its use of recycled polyester, polyamide and wool.

Click here to shop items containing recycled fibres →

Will a cotton or wool blend still be breathable?

Often, yes. A small amount of elastane adds stretch and does not automatically cancel out the comfort of cotton or wool. Elastane and spandex are names for the same fibre.

However, composition is only part of the answer. Fabric thickness, weave or knit, fit, coatings and lining affect how easily heat and moisture escape. A lightweight cotton-rich jersey with a little elastane may feel more comfortable in warm weather than a heavy, tightly woven pure cotton fabric.

Blends can improve fit or durability, but combining different fibres can also make recycling more difficult. Choose for the garment’s job: a little stretch may be useful in fitted trousers, while you may prefer pure fibres in a loose shirt.

Vegan leather and suede: are they just plastic?

Many are plastic-based. Vegan leather commonly uses polyurethane (PU) or PVC; faux suede often uses polyester microfibres. ‘Vegan’ describes the absence of animal-derived materials, rather than certifying environmental performance.

Some alternatives incorporate plant material, such as cactus or pineapple, but may still contain plastic binders, backing or coatings. Plastic-free options exist, so look for information on the full composition rather than relying on the plant name. This research review of leather alternatives covers the range of materials involved.

Consider how long the finished item is likely to last and whether it can be repaired. Neither animal leather nor its alternatives deserve a blanket sustainability claim.

How to use our fabric filters

Start with your colour season, then select the fabric category that suits what you need. ‘100% cotton’ helps you find pure cotton options; ‘cotton & cotton blends’ includes mixed compositions. ‘Viscose, modal & lyocell’ groups related cellulosic fibres, with more detail on the product pagse.

You can also choose ‘100% natural fibres’ if that is your preference. Natural origin is useful information, but it is not a guarantee of low environmental impact.

Before buying, check the retailer’s full composition and care instructions. The fabric should suit your everyday life as well as your palette: a beautifully coloured jumper earns its place in your wardrobe when you reach for it year after year.

More guides to help you shop thoughtfully

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Hero image by Karl Wiggers on Unsplash

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