Woman looking in the mirror.

Why Finding Your Own Colour Season Is So Difficult

If you have ever tried to work out your own colour season, you may have discovered that it is much harder than it first appears.

You take an online colour analysis quiz and get Soft Autumn. Another says Cool Summer. You compare yourself with photographs of people from both seasons and can see similarities with each. Your sister is convinced you are a Winter. You try a few colours from different palettes and somehow end up even less certain than when you started. It is a very common experience, particularly among people who already know quite a lot about seasonal colour analysis.

There is a big difference between understanding the characteristics of a colour season and being able to recognise those characteristics accurately in yourself. Colour analysis involves judging small differences in temperature, depth, clarity and softness, while also observing the effect different colours have on the complexion. Add inconsistent lighting, phone cameras, dyed hair, make-up and our own preconceptions into the mix and it becomes surprisingly easy to reach the wrong conclusion.

So why is finding your own colour season so difficult?

Colour analysis is a trained skill

Professional colour analysts train to recognise and interpret the effects of colour on a person.

Training varies according to the colour analysis system being used, but typically includes colour theory, temperature, value and chroma, the correct use of drapes and learning how to observe changes in the complexion as different colours are placed around the face.

Some of those changes can be quite subtle. An analyst may be looking at shadows beneath the eyes, changes in redness or unevenness, definition around the features and whether the face appears clearer or more tired as the drapes change.

There is also a skill to making comparisons in a systematic way. Warm and cool colours can be tested against one another, followed by different levels of depth, softness or clarity. The analyst builds up a picture from a series of comparisons rather than relying on one feature or one particularly successful colour.

Experience matters too. Someone who regularly analyses different people has seen the enormous variety that exists within each palette. They are less reliant on the stereotypes we often encounter online about what a Spring, Summer, Autumn or Winter is supposed to look like.

You can learn a great deal about seasonal colour analysis yourself, and that knowledge can be extremely useful. Accurately assessing your own colouring and observing small changes in your own face is harder.

If you're thinking about booking professional colour analysis, try our Find a Colour Analyst directory.

Why do colour analysis quizzes give different results?

Online colour analysis quizzes are often where people begin. They can be useful for learning some of the characteristics associated with different seasons, but their accuracy depends heavily on the questions they ask and the answers you give.

Many ask you to identify your own undertone, contrast level or dominant colour characteristics.

Is your skin warm, cool or neutral? Is your natural hair medium or dark? Are your eyes clear or muted? Is there high, medium or low contrast between your features?

These are surprisingly difficult questions to answer objectively. If you are already unsure whether your colouring is soft or clear, or somewhere in between, a quiz that asks you to choose between the two cannot resolve the uncertainty for you.

Quizzes can also use different colour analysis systems or different ways of reaching a result. Some place considerable emphasis on hair and eye colour. Others focus more heavily on undertone or ask you to identify a dominant characteristic first.

This helps explain why you can take several colour analysis quizzes and receive several different seasons.

A quiz can give you useful clues and perhaps narrow down the possibilities, but it has no way of seeing what happens to your complexion when different colours are placed beside your face.

Why hair and eye colour can send you in the wrong direction

A huge amount of DIY colour analysis advice is based on physical characteristics.

Dark hair is associated with Winter. Red hair suggests Autumn. Blonde hair points towards Spring or Summer. Blue or grey eyes are often treated as evidence of cool colouring.

Real people are far more varied.

Two people can have similar hair, eye and skin colouring and respond differently to the same colours. Equally, two people who look quite different from one another can belong to the same season.

Hair and eye colour can provide useful information, particularly when looking at overall depth and contrast, but neither determines your season by itself.

This is one reason searching for photographs of “people who look like me” can become a frustrating way to find your colour season. There may be people who superficially resemble you across several different palettes.

Why family and friends often guess your season incorrectly

It seems sensible to ask the people who know you best which colours suit you. They have, after all, seen you wearing hundreds of different colours over the years.

The difficulty is that familiarity and personal taste both influence what we see.

If you have worn black for years, your family may be very accustomed to seeing you in black. A friend who loves strong colour may instinctively prefer you in a vivid red, while someone with more understated taste may choose the soft neutral.

We also tend to judge the clothes as part of the overall picture. We might love the dress, think the colour is beautiful or associate a particular shade with someone because they wear it frequently.

A trained analyst is observing specific changes in the face as the colours change. Most friends and relatives have never been taught to look for those changes, so their answer is usually based on a much broader impression of whether they think a colour suits you.

That can still be interesting. It just isn't always reliable evidence of your colour season.

Why photos can be misleading for colour analysis

Photographs are one of the biggest sources of confusion in DIY colour analysis.

A photograph looks objective. You can put two pictures next to each other, zoom in and study your colouring far more closely than you could in a mirror.

Unfortunately, the photograph itself may already have changed what you are trying to assess.

Modern phone cameras automatically adjust images in numerous ways. White balance, exposure, contrast, saturation and skin tones can all be altered as the photograph is processed.

The surroundings affect the image too. A photograph taken beside a warm cream wall can produce a different impression from one taken in a cool grey room. Direct sunlight creates highlights and shadows, while indoor lighting can introduce a warm or cool cast.

Then there is the screen on which you view the photograph. Colours can look slightly different on a phone, laptop or tablet depending on the display settings.

None of this makes photographs useless. They can be helpful for recording comparisons and looking back at them later. They are much less reliable when you are trying to make fine distinctions between warm and cool undertones or decide between two neighbouring seasons.

This is also worth bearing in mind with online colour analysis. An analyst who works online will usually give specific instructions about photographs, lighting and other variables so that they have the best possible information to work from.

Can AI tell you your colour season from a photo?

It is now very easy to upload a photograph to an AI tool and ask it to identify your colour season. The answer can sound impressively convincing, particularly when it gives detailed, personalised reasons based on your skin, hair, eyes, contrast and apparent undertone.

The difficulty is that AI is still working from the photograph you have given it. All the problems we have just discussed around lighting, white balance, camera processing and screen colour still apply. If a photograph makes your skin appear warmer, cooler, lighter or more muted than it does in real life, an AI analysis may build a perfectly plausible explanation around inaccurate information.

AI can also place too much emphasis on visible characteristics. Dark hair, pale skin, eye colour or apparent contrast may all contribute to its assessment, but those features alone cannot show how your complexion actually responds when different colours are placed beside your face.

AI can be much more useful as an exploratory tool than a definitive colour analysis. It can help you understand the differences between possible seasons, suggest colours to compare at home or explain why you might be struggling to choose between two neighbouring palettes. You could, for example, ask which colours would be most useful for comparing Soft Summer with Soft Autumn and then test those colours yourself in consistent natural light.

A photograph-based AI tool cannot recreate the experience of systematic draping with a trained analyst who can see your complexion in real time. If AI gives you a season, it is worth treating the result as another clue rather than allowing a confident-sounding answer to settle the question on its own.

Why lighting matters so much

Lighting can completely change our perception of colour.

Warm artificial light can add a yellow or golden cast to the face and surrounding colours. Other artificial lights can be noticeably cool. Strong sunlight can wash out subtle differences, while mixed lighting from several sources makes comparisons particularly difficult.

Daylight changes too. The light coming through the same window will vary according to the time of day, weather and direction of the sun.

It is much the same principle we use when choosing paint for a room. Most of us would buy a sample pot and try the colour on several walls before committing to five litres of paint. A shade that looks perfect on the colour card can look completely different beside a north-facing window, in a darker corner or under artificial light in the evening. The paint hasn't changed; the light around it has changed the way we perceive the colour. The same thing happens when you are trying to judge the colours in your own skin, hair and eyes.

If you try one set of colours in your bedroom in the morning and another beneath bathroom lighting that evening, you are introducing another variable into the comparison.

This is why consistent lighting is so important when you are trying colour draping at home. You want the conditions to remain as similar as possible while the colours change.

It also helps to compare colours directly. Our visual memory for subtle colour differences is not particularly good. Seeing two similar reds one after the other is far more revealing than trying to remember how one of them looked yesterday.

Skin undertone is particularly easy to misread

Undertone is one of the areas that causes the most confusion in self-analysis, partly because so much advice online tries to reduce it to a simple visual test.

You may have been told to look at the veins on your wrist or decide whether gold or silver jewellery suits you better. Perhaps you have tried to identify a visible pink, peach, golden, olive or reddish cast to the skin, or made assumptions about undertone based on how light or deep your complexion is. These tests can occasionally provide clues, but human skin is far more varied than these descriptions suggest.

Warm, cool and relatively neutral undertones can be found across the full spectrum of skin tones. On deeper complexions, for example, you may see golden, red, blue, olive or more neutral qualities at the surface, but these do not always provide a straightforward answer about undertone. Dark brown skin can be warm, cool or relatively neutral, just as lighter skin can.

Skin depth can cause another source of confusion. Someone with a deeper complexion may automatically be assumed to belong to Deep Autumn or Deep Winter. In seasonal colour analysis, however, Deep describes the overall colour characteristics that suit a person rather than simply the depth of their skin. People with deeper skin tones can belong to seasons across the seasonal spectrum.

This is why looking at the skin alone can only tell us so much. Comparing warm and cool colours close to the face allows you to see how the complexion actually responds. A trained analyst may observe changes in evenness, clarity, shadows and definition as the drapes change, building up evidence across a series of comparisons.

Temperature is only one part of that picture. Two people with similarly cool undertones might need very different levels of depth, contrast or softness in the colours they wear.

Undertone and overtone are not the same thing

Another useful distinction is the difference between undertone and overtone.

Overtone is the colour we see at the surface of the skin. It can be influenced by pigmentation, tanning, freckles, redness and other visible characteristics. Undertone describes the underlying temperature of the colouring and tends to remain more consistent.

This explains some of the apparent contradictions that make self-typing so difficult. You can have cool undertones and tan easily. You can have cool undertones and freckles. A warm-toned person can have visible redness in their complexion. Two people with quite similar visible skin colour may also respond very differently when the same drapes are placed beneath their faces.

Tanning is a particularly good example. Your skin may become considerably deeper or more golden after time in the sun, but that does not automatically change your underlying colour season from cool to warm. You may find that some colours work slightly differently as your surface colouring changes, while the underlying characteristics of your best palette remain broadly consistent.

Freckles can be misleading for similar reasons. Because freckles are often associated visually with red hair and warm Autumn colouring, it is easy to assume that they indicate a warm undertone. They can occur in people with cool, warm and neutral colouring and should not be used on their own to determine a season.

Understanding this distinction can make some of the apparent rules of colour analysis much easier to unpick. The colour you can see in your skin is useful information, but it is only one part of the overall picture.

Does your natural hair colour determine your colour season?

Hair is another common source of confusion when you are trying to find your own colour season.

Your natural hair colour can provide useful information about your overall colouring, but it does not determine your season. Someone with naturally dark brown hair does not automatically need a Deep Autumn or Deep Winter palette, just as naturally blonde hair does not automatically make someone a Light Spring or Light Summer.

Childhood hair colour can be particularly misleading. Many adults with medium or dark blonde, light brown or even darker brown hair were very fair-haired as young children. Looking at photographs of yourself with white-blonde hair at the age of three does not mean that lightness is still the dominant characteristic of your colouring as an adult. Hair colour commonly changes and deepens as we grow up.

Dyed hair creates a different problem. If you have been blonde for many years, it can become difficult to imagine yourself with your natural hair colour. The phenomenon sometimes jokingly called “blonde blindness” describes becoming so accustomed to increasingly blonde hair that it no longer seems particularly light to you. The same familiarity can happen with any long-term hair colour.

This can influence self-analysis in both directions. You might assess your colouring according to the blonde, copper, brunette or black hair you currently see in the mirror. Or you might discover that your natural hair is considerably darker and assume that this must push you into a deeper season.

Neither approach is particularly reliable. Hair changes the overall impression of our colouring and can alter the amount of contrast we appear to have, but seasonal colour analysis is concerned with how your complexion responds to colour.

For this reason, some colour analysis systems and analysts cover the hair during at least part of the draping process, particularly when it has been coloured. Removing the visual influence of the hair allows the analyst to concentrate on the face and observe what happens to the skin as the drapes change.

And is your natural hair colour always the most flattering colour you could possibly have? Not necessarily. People successfully change their hair colour all the time. A different shade may work beautifully when its temperature, depth and intensity harmonise with your colouring. Your natural hair is useful information, but it should not become another rule that overrides what you can actually see.

Why neighbouring colour seasons are so easy to confuse

If you keep going backwards and forwards between two seasons, there may be a good reason.

The 12 seasonal palettes are related to one another, and neighbouring seasons deliberately share characteristics.

Soft Summer and Soft Autumn both have softness. Deep Autumn and Deep Winter share depth. Clear Spring and Clear Winter can both handle clarity and stronger contrast. Light Spring and Light Summer share lightness.

Someone who belongs to Soft Autumn may therefore wear some Soft Summer colours very successfully. The differences become clearer when you compare the palettes as a whole and look at how the complexion responds as the temperature changes.

This is one of the reasons self-typing can become frustrating. You try a Soft Summer colour and it works. Then you try a Soft Autumn colour and that works too. Both observations may be perfectly valid.

People rarely fit into twelve completely separate boxes with a hard line between one palette and the next. There is variation within every season, and some people sit closer to a neighbouring palette than others.

Why celebrity comparisons rarely solve the problem

Celebrity colour analysis can be useful for getting a general feel for a season, but it is a shaky basis for identifying your own.

Celebrity photographs are taken in different lighting, are often professionally edited, and usually show the person wearing make-up. Hair colour may change regularly too.

There is often little agreement about the celebrity's season in the first place. Search for the seasonal colour analysis of a well-known actor or musician and you may find convincing arguments for two or three different results.

Even if the celebrity has been accurately analysed, sharing similar hair, eyes or skin with them does not guarantee that you respond to colour in the same way.

Celebrity examples are probably best used as illustrations of palettes rather than templates for what everybody within a season should look like.

Why we struggle to see our own colouring objectively

Self-analysis comes with another complication: you have been looking at your own face for your entire life, and you already have preconceived ideas about which colours suit you.

Perhaps you have always thought that pale colours wash you out. You may feel sophisticated in black, healthy in coral or comfortable in muted neutrals. You may strongly prefer silver jewellery to gold.

Those preferences can creep into the analysis without us noticing.

Hair colour can have a particularly strong influence. If you have highlighted or dyed your hair for many years, it becomes part of the version of yourself you are accustomed to seeing. Make-up, fake tan, glasses and the colours you regularly wear can have a similar effect.

Once you begin to suspect a particular season, confirmation bias can creep in too. You notice the colours from that palette that work beautifully and find explanations for the ones that don't.

That is one reason even people with a very good understanding of colour analysis can struggle to type themselves.

Why do so many people mistype their colour season?

Most colour analysis mistypes are understandable.

There are plenty of misconceptions about seasonal colour analysis online, particularly the idea that a single physical characteristic can reveal someone's season.

You may have come across "rules" like these:

Dark hair means Winter.

Red hair means Autumn.

Blue eyes mean Summer.

Very fair colouring means a Light season.

Olive skin means warm.

High contrast means Winter.

There will be people for whom each of these descriptions happens to be accurate, but this does not make them true for everyone.

Another common problem is putting too much weight on one or two successful colours. If you look wonderful in navy, that does not automatically make you a Summer or Winter. Many colours appear in different versions across several palettes.

A more useful pattern emerges when you compare groups of colours and observe which qualities consistently work best. You might notice, for example, that you repeatedly look better in raspberry, burgundy and cool pink than in tomato red, rust and coral, suggesting that cooler colours are worth exploring. Perhaps dusty blue, soft rose and muted sage are more harmonious than cobalt, fuchsia and emerald, pointing towards softness rather than clarity. Or you may find that pale pastels leave you looking washed out while navy, forest green and deep plum bring much more definition to your features, suggesting that you need greater depth.

One comparison on its own is unlikely to give you your season. When the same pattern keeps appearing across reds, blues, greens, neutrals and other colour families, however, you begin to build a much more useful picture of how your colouring responds to temperature, depth and chroma.

Can you accurately colour analyse yourself?

It is certainly possible to get close, and some people do successfully identify their own season.

If you want to try colour analysis at home, make the conditions as consistent as you can. Use good natural daylight without strong direct sun, remove make-up where possible and pull dyed hair away from your face if it is likely to affect your judgement.

Then compare colours rather than testing them individually.

Try similar colours with different undertones. Compare softer and clearer versions of a colour. Test lighter and deeper shades. Look at your face first and the fabric second.

It can also help to challenge your initial theory. If you think you are a Winter, actively test the closest alternatives rather than collecting examples that support Winter. If you are torn between Soft Summer and Soft Autumn, concentrate on the differences between those palettes and see whether a pattern develops.

Photographs can be useful for keeping a record, although it is worth making your first observations in person while the lighting and other conditions remain unchanged.

And if you repeatedly end up torn between the same two or three seasons, you may simply have reached the point where another pair of trained eyes would be useful.

Is professional colour analysis more accurate?

For most people who want a confident answer, a professional colour analysis is likely to be the most reliable way to find their season.

The advantage comes from the combination of training, controlled comparison and objectivity. An experienced analyst knows what changes to look for and can work through the drapes systematically without the personal preferences and preconceptions that inevitably affect us when we analyse ourselves.

There are different colour analysis systems and methods, so professional analysts will not necessarily approach the process in exactly the same way. There can also be genuine areas of overlap, particularly for someone whose colouring sits close to a neighbouring palette.

If you decide to book an analysis, it is worth understanding which system the analyst uses, how they were trained and how the appointment will work. Our guide to how to choose a colour analyst covers the questions you may want to ask before booking.

You can also use the Shop My Palette Find a Colour Analyst directory to find trained colour analysts across the UK, compare the systems they use and find analysts offering in-person or online appointments.

For someone who has spent months switching between possible seasons, professional analysis can also bring a welcome end to the uncertainty. Once you understand the colour characteristics that work for you, shopping and getting dressed become much easier.

What if you have typed yourself incorrectly?

Discovering that you are a different season from the one you expected does not make everything you already own wrong.

There is plenty of overlap between palettes. If you had identified yourself as a neighbouring season, you may already own many colours that work well for you.

It can actually be useful to look at where your original self-analysis was accurate.

Someone moving from Soft Autumn to Soft Summer may have correctly recognised that softness was important but found temperature harder to judge. Someone moving from Deep Autumn to Deep Winter may have been right about needing depth. A Clear Spring who previously thought they were Clear Winter may already have discovered how well they respond to clarity and contrast.

Understanding those characteristics is far more useful in the long term than simply memorising the name of your season.

Frequently asked questions

Why do I get different results on colour analysis quizzes?

Different quizzes use different questions and methods, and many rely on you assessing your own undertone, contrast, depth or clarity. Those characteristics can be difficult to judge accurately, so it is common to receive different seasonal colour analysis results from different quizzes.

Why can't I figure out my colour season?

Finding your own colour season involves judging subtle differences in temperature, depth, softness and clarity. Neighbouring seasons also share characteristics, so you may find that colours from more than one palette look good. Lighting, photographs, dyed hair, make-up and your own preferences can make self-analysis harder too.

Can photos be used to determine your colour season?

Photographs can be useful, but cameras, lighting, white balance, image processing and screen settings can all alter the appearance of colour. If you are trying to distinguish between similar seasons or assess undertone, in-person comparisons under consistent lighting can provide more reliable information.

Can you have features from two different colour seasons?

Yes. Your physical features do not have to match a stereotypical description of your season. People within the same colour season can have very different combinations of skin, hair and eye colour.

Can you be between two colour seasons?

Seasonal palettes have defined characteristics, but there is natural variation within them and considerable overlap between neighbouring seasons. Some people find that they can wear a significant number of colours from an adjacent palette successfully.

What is the most accurate way to find your colour season?

A professional colour analysis is generally the most reliable option. A trained analyst can compare carefully selected colours under consistent conditions and observe how changes in temperature, depth, clarity and softness affect your complexion.

Is it common to mistype your colour season?

Yes. Self-typing can easily be influenced by hair and eye colour, apparent skin tone, photographs, online quizzes and assumptions about what each season should look like. Neighbouring seasons such as Soft Summer and Soft Autumn or Deep Autumn and Deep Winter can be particularly easy to confuse.

Why do I look good in colours from different seasons?

Seasonal palettes overlap, especially neighbouring palettes that share a characteristic such as softness, depth, lightness or clarity. There will also be individual variation within every season. Looking good in a colour outside your palette does not necessarily mean your colour analysis is wrong.

 


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Some of the photos on this blog are by the very talented Sinitta Leunen on Unsplash. Used with many thanks.

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